White or red gold: parameters, properties and differences

Created: 07/20/2019
Updated: 01/29/2021 13:34:55 Share:
Jewelry store windows tirelessly delight customers with luxurious jewelry made from all kinds of precious metals. Gold is among the favorites. This popularity can be explained very simply: metal has a stylish appearance, is durable, and practical. But when it comes to choosing the right jewelry, everything gets a little more complicated: what is better to choose - red or yellow gold and how do they differ? Our experts will tell you.

About the chemical composition of gold jewelry

When it comes to gold jewelry, calling them such in the full sense of the word would not be entirely correct. The fact is that this metal is never used in its pure form in the manufacture of jewelry. Craftsmen, as a rule, use alloys that contain a large percentage of gold. This technology has given the world several varieties of jewelry metal. The key difference between them is the qualitative composition.

The quantitative ratio of precious metal and impurities in jewelry is called alloy. In Russia, this ratio is called “breakdown” (the reference figure is 1000). So, if they talk about a product of 585 standard, it is meant that the alloy of 1000 particles contains 585 gold.

In Western countries, it is customary to refer to the quality of the alloy as “karats”. The highest standard is 24 carats. This is pure gold, which is similar to the Russian 1000 standard. The price of a metal, including products made from this metal, is determined by the composition of the impurities used in its manufacture:

1. Yellow is a copper-silver combination. Such a composition has always spoken of the wealth and social status of the owner of yellow gold jewelry. The mixture may contain varying amounts of silver, so the color of the yellow metal ranges from light to rich brown shades.
2. Red – in terms of qualitative composition, red gold is not particularly different from yellow gold. The key difference is the amount of copper used in its composition (there is much more). It is thanks to copper that products made from the red variety of the valuable metal receive a characteristic reddish tint. A few decades ago, during Soviet times, this type of metal was mainly in use.
3. White - this metal looks very much like platinum. But the latter is much more expensive, so white gold, as a more inexpensive alternative, is very popular. The mixture owes its color to the presence of silver, nickel or (in rare cases) platinum in its composition.

Yellow, red or white gold: which is better and what are the differences?

Gold is the luxury and elegance of a noble “sunny” metal, often combined with semi-precious and precious stones. They never go out of fashion and are valued much higher than silver jewelry. Jewelry craftsmen give the precious metal a variety of shapes, which can be classic or in line with the prevailing trend.

The difference between jewelry is not only in design. Yellow, red or white gold can be used to create jewelry, each of which looks beautiful in its own way, but invariably raises the question as to which one is better and what the differences between them are.

Content:

• Three colors of gold;
• Why are jewelry made from gold alloys?
• Red gold;
• Yellow gold;
• White gold;
• Which gold is better?
• Summarizing.

Three colors of gold

The term “gold” when applied to jewelry is relative. In jewelry, alloys are used when precious metal is mixed with other chemical elements to produce yellow, red or white gold, as well as some other shades.

Ligature - the ratio of impurities and the main element in the alloy is reflected in the sample. The conditional “reference” value is “24 carats” or “1000”. And if the standard of the product is 585, then it is made of an alloy that contains 585 units of gold (pure) and 415 parts - alloying elements.

The introduction of a certain amount of copper, silver, palladium, zinc, nickel determines the color of gold:

• Yellow. It is a ligature made of gold, silver, copper. Since ancient times, it has symbolized wealth and power, a noble position in society, and has not lost its relevance today. It can have different shades from light to dark. It all depends on the amount of silver.
• Red. Its composition differs little from yellow, but the amount of copper taken is many times greater. The latter is the “secret” of the characteristic color. It was practically the only alloy common in the USSR. These times were different in that there was no question before a person as to what kind of yellow, red or white gold to buy.
• White. It looks similar to platinum, but is much cheaper. This has become the reason for the increased demand for jewelry made from it in recent years. It gets its hue thanks to nickel, palladium, and platinum. The first one is the cheapest and is prohibited in many countries due to the possible manifestation of an allergy to the alloy, which can also quickly darken. Ligature with platinum is considered noble, which is reflected in the cost.

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It is necessary to understand that yellow, red or white gold can have a similar sample, that is, the same amount of precious metal in the composition. The acquired shade is determined by the ratio of alloying elements. In relation to a white alloy, it also matters whether palladium, platinum or nickel is included in the composition. This affects both cost and quality.

Why are jewelry made from alloys and not pure gold?

The purest alloy of precious metal is red. Secondary impurities in its composition cannot exceed ten percent, and the fineness cannot be lower than 916. This material has a high cost and consists almost entirely of gold, but its inherent softness and fragility did not contribute to the spread of jewelry, such as earrings, made of red alloy.

The only way to compensate for the deficiency is to increase the mass, and, accordingly, the weight of the jewelry. A small ring or earrings made of .999 gold will deform slightly or severely over time.

In order for a simple and uncomplicated wedding ring to last a long time, its weight should start from 8 grams or more.

The high cost and limited design led to the need to introduce secondary metals. And if relatively recently it was possible to purchase only yellow, red or white gold, in recent years, depending on the composition of the alloy, the following shades have appeared:

• blue;
• blue;
• violet;
• green;
• black;
• grey;
• brown.

Unusual green, blue, violet, light blue alloys are quite vulnerable and are most often used as inserts to replace precious stones. There are not very many fans of such “exotic” products, and the production of products is limited. Yellow, red or white gold is in much greater demand, which is often used by both private small workshops and world-famous jewelry houses.

There is one thing to consider about the color of gold. The hue is not always the result of ligature, that is, the introduction of various secondary metals. There are laser processing techniques and chemical reactions to achieve the desired color. Jewelry made from precious metal obtained in this way is valued much lower than from alloys, which should definitely be taken into account before purchasing.

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Red gold

Well known to the older generation, it has several different shades. On sale you can find pale, dark, bright and other shades of red gold. Most residents of the post-Soviet space associate products made from it with something outdated.

Many buyers, when considering yellow, red or white gold, prefer the first and last alloy. The red-colored precious metal is inferior in terms of nobility to its competitors, but remains relevant. It is often used as an additional element of complex products.

Rings, rings, watches, and bracelets made of red gold look most advantageous. Experiments with the percentage of additives made it possible to obtain a pink-colored precious metal. It is quite popular, and jewelry made from it is mostly more affordable.

Yellow gold

It personifies the nobility of the precious metal and is associated specifically with gold. It comes in light “lemon” and darker shades. Unlike red, it is more versatile and goes well with various precious and semi-precious stones, such as pearls, and looks good with European and Oriental clothing.

Among the advantages of the “solar” alloy are the following:

1. Color . A ligature that produces a yellow tint represents exclusively gold.
2. Versatility. Looks great on its own and suits those with both dark and light skin.
3. Variety . Yellow gold jewelry can be simple or intricate, with precious and semi-precious stones.
4. Availability. Due to the absence of expensive secondary metals, unlike white, which requires palladium or platinum, it has a lower cost.

It should be remembered that yellow, red or white gold is graded according to its purity, so the price may vary for similar products, either down or up. The more precious metal in the “sunny” shade of the alloy, the higher the price.

White gold

An increasingly popular precious metal alloy today, it has become a more affordable alternative to platinum. It is combined with diamonds and natural black pearls. It invariably attracts attention and testifies to the impeccable taste of its owner.

The main advantages of white gold include:

1. Prestige. Jewelry similar to platinum evokes admiration and increases the status of its owner in the eyes of others.
2. Originality. Jewelry made from this alloy is distinguished by intricate shapes and highly complex designs.
3. Trend. White gold is at the peak of its popularity, which means that the owner of such jewelry is a person who follows fashion trends.

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The most accessible alloy is considered to be nickel, but it is prohibited as an allergen in a number of countries. Galvanization can eliminate the disadvantage. And if, when choosing yellow, red or white gold, preference is given to the latter, and it contains nickel, you need to clarify this point with the seller. Otherwise, there is a possibility of rashes and irritation on the skin.

Palladium is safe, but less hard and less polishable. Platinum gives the alloy a noble shine and strength and does not cause allergic reactions. This white gold ligature has no complaints. The only downside is the high cost, which is fully justified by the luxurious appearance of the jewelry.

Which gold is better?

There is no clear answer to this question. It is important to understand that yellow, red or white gold is made by adding varying percentages of secondary metals to enhance the quality of the final jewelry piece. The shade has nothing to do with the sample. It only demonstrates the amount of gold in the alloy.

The main criteria that you should focus on are your own preferences, the outfit for which you are purchasing the jewelry or set, and the standard of the precious metal. The most common is 585. Jewelry of 750 is less common. They are more expensive and are most often intended not for everyday wear, but for going out.

The most fashionable and expensive is white, and the most common and affordable is yellow. Products made of red gold have their fans, but more preference is given to rings made of this metal in a lighter color, that is, close to a pink palette.

Summarizing

It must be remembered that yellow, red or white gold can have different compositions. It depends on the country of manufacture and jewelry house. Some save money and introduce cheap impurities into the remaining 415 (585 standard) or 250 (750 standard) parts, and sell them as expensive jewelry. The color of gold is a matter of taste, but you should pay close attention to the quality of the alloy and purchase jewelry from trusted brands.

Features of red gold

Red and pink varieties contain large amounts of copper and zinc. The resulting material is highly malleable and durable, which is important for jewelry processing. Finished products have an excellent appearance and an attractive price. Red gold is often used as an original setting for rubies and diamonds.

Products made from this metal are very durable and often very elegant. The latter is possible due to the high ductility of the metal: it is very easy to work with and you can create the most complex, subtle and original patterns without any problems. In Europe, rose and red gold are not highly valued due to the widespread belief that this metal is of low quality.

But if we talk about Russia, then until recently everything was somewhat simpler: in addition to the options under consideration, there was nothing to choose from, so we were content with what we had. The red-colored material, despite its affordable price, is highly durable, has excellent preservation and goes well with almost any precious stones.

So, what are the advantages of red gold products:

1. High strength;
2. Durability;
3. Preservation of shape;
4. Small therapeutic effect (due to the large amount of copper in the composition);
5. Preservation of the original color (does not fade over time).

Does hallmark affect the color of gold?

Many people know that every piece of gold jewelry must be hallmarked. Our country uses the metric system, which indicates the gold content in 1000 parts of the alloy. Hallmark is a key parameter when choosing both white and red gold, so you should definitely pay attention to it. In addition, the presence of a sample once again confirms that the jeweler complies with all necessary quality standards when making gold.

It is important to note that products with the same hallmark can differ radically in color, so this parameter does not in any way affect the shade of gold.

Features of yellow gold

Yellow gold contains a large amount of copper and silver. Warm, eye-catching color is one of the main advantages of this metal and jewelry made from it. It is yellow gold that is considered the closest to pure material. But this material is not as flexible as red gold: it is more difficult to process and requires more skill. Therefore, most jewelry created from this metal is not particularly sophisticated.

By the way, the yellow metal contains more silver than copper. Thanks to this technology, it is possible to achieve an incredible solar glow effect on jewelry. In addition to the well-known 585, there is the rarer 750 and the very rare 958.

Yellow gold is highly prized for its unique ability to emit sunlight and its incredible durability. It is worth noting that this precious metal is quite rarely combined with stones, most often giving preference to diamond inlay. Jewelry using yellow gold and stones can be called universal: they are equally suitable for both fair-skinned and dark-skinned people.

Advantages of yellow gold products:

1. Bright, stylish color;
2. Sophisticated appearance;
3. Symbolizes warmth;
4. Goes great with any skin type.

How to distinguish real gold from fake

The quality of jewelry made in Russia is controlled by the Federal Assay Office (FAP). This department issues licenses to enterprises with activities related to the trade, purchase, and processing of waste precious metals and scrap.

When buying products from domestic jewelry factories made of white, red and yellow gold, you don’t have to worry about counterfeiting. In Russia, for each precious metal, the current GOST establishes the composition and proportion of the alloy, and low-quality metal is sent for processing. Gold earrings, rings, and bracelets that go on sale bear a name and hallmark :

• stamp - a number indicating the purity of the metal, the profile of a woman in a kokoshnik, the letter designation of the regulatory authority;
• name - letter code of the manufacturer, jewelry workshop.

The symbols of the nameplate are enclosed in a single outline, its shape is determined by the state inspection of assay supervision

Questionable jewelry made of red, white or yellow gold purchased in Turkey, China, Israel is checked in different ways:

1. Black bread. They cover it with crumb, leave it for a couple of days, the fake oxidizes , but the real gold-containing alloy does not change color.
2. Lapis pencil (a pharmaceutical product for treating small wounds containing silver nitrate). First, the chain, ring or bracelet is moistened with water, and then lapis is passed over the wet surface; if a line appears on the product, it means it is not gold.
3. A magnet is used to detect products made of thulium, erbium, holmium, dysprosium, terbium, and gadolinium. Counterfeits stick to it because they are highly magnetic.
4. Vinegar. An item made from an alloy that imitates a precious metal darkens after five minutes.

Rules for choosing a suitable product

Before choosing a piece of jewelry for yourself, you must first clearly decide on the type of gold that is most suitable. So, when choosing a material

used in jewelry are guided by a number of important points:

1. If you plan to purchase a product for constant wear (in everyday life), it is better to give preference to red gold options.
2. Products made of yellow gold are an excellent choice for special occasions - such jewelry looks very stylish and expensive, but with constant wear they can easily become deformed, and repairs will be expensive.
3. If you plan to buy a gold watch, complemented by original inlay, it is better to give preference to red metal, since this option will definitely be more practical to wear and durable.
4. For wedding rings, yellow gold should be the clear choice - for decades, this option has symbolized eternal love and fidelity of partners.
5. For complex jewelry with exquisite patterns, red or white metal is more suitable. It is more flexible when working and will allow you to create a luxurious flower, pattern and even the finest leaves.

Having decided on the appropriate type of gold, you can safely go to the jewelry store for an enjoyable shopping experience. Choosing precious jewelry is not an easy task and should be approached with the utmost seriousness. In order not to get into trouble and not be disappointed in the purchase, when selecting gold jewelry you should pay attention to the following points

:

1. Quality - pay attention to the sample. In addition, the number marked on the back of the jewelry must match the number indicated on the tag.
2. Availability of information on the tag - carefully study everything that is indicated on the tag with the decoration - there should be information about the sample, weight, composition of the material and, of course, the manufacturer.
3. Appearance - all fastenings and soldering on the product must be done very carefully and, most importantly, of high quality. The presence of defects or any irregularities indicates a low-quality product.
4. Manufacturer – this factor plays an important role. Products made in Italy have become increasingly popular. Turkish manufacturers, as practice shows, are not particularly concerned about the composition of the ligatures used in the production of jewelry. Most often, only the fastener or part indicating the sample is made of good material: everything else is made with excess copper.

ON A NOTE. Large gold jewelry manufacturers may add their own logo to the gold standard. As a rule, this indicates the authenticity of the product and its quality.

How is red gold different from yellow gold?

All types of jewelry that contain gold are alloys. Metals have been added to each of them, which dilute the true color of the gold and reduce the overall cost of the product compared to pure gold products.

At the same time, shades can have a variety of appearances and suit the tastes of different people.

Real yellow gold has a practical color that characterizes wealth and royalty, which is why it has been worn since Tsarist times. But, it is important to remember that yellow gold, which does not contain any impurity in its composition, is not at all practical.

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It is not comfortable to wear because it is soft and not comfortable to wear, so it is simply impossible to use it as an everyday decoration.

When metal jewelry is added to the alloy, it receives additional strength, but most importantly, an exquisite color that can be varied and worn every day, matching the color of the same dresses, if it is a festive event, or create other openwork jewelry from it that will add color and taste every day.

Comparative characteristics

As usual, let’s summarize everything said above. Our experts compared two types of gold, and this is what they came up with: